My first combat roll

Breaking waves at Motion

Sunday we stopped to play in the breaking waves at Motion. There, some offshore rocks cause the swell to stand up and break and spill before hitting the cliff line.

I practiced side surfing for a while and at one point I got too close to the rocks where the waves were breaking. A wall of standing water came at me and I thought to myself "Oh, oh". I couldn't see over it; I knew I was going to get clobbered.

I braced aggressively into it as it slammed into me and went for a short bumpy ride sideways for about 3 or 4 seconds when my ride above water stopped and my ride under water began. I was shocked at the violence of the ride but did not panic. It felt as if the wave was trying to pull me out of the cockpit so I pressed my legs harder onto the thigh braces.

I went along for the ride and suddenly, briefly, I was upright. I have no idea why because the water was so turbulent I hadn't tried to set up to roll. Over I went again to continue my upside down ride. After what seemed like a long time, but was probably 6 or 7 seconds, things calmed down a bit. I set up to roll and I was back up, breathing air. Then I thought to myself "Whoa!".

I was incredulous and elated at the same time. And, on my offside too I might add. I retrieved my tethered water bottle and camera from the water and went for more. I don't think I'll forget that one for a while.