What ya at?A lone figure stands on shore watching the waves, and us, as we make our way towards the breakers. We were out for a day paddle on Sunday and stopped to play in the breaking waves in Spread Eagle Bay.
There was an imperceptible swell in Trinity Bay on Sunday but at this point they piled up into 2 and 3 metre breaking waves. It was too much to pass up. At first we contented ourselves with riding up the waves on the edge of the action but we got bolder because the waves were breaking offshore.
Clyde paddled in and got pasted in the chest and face. Tobias rode one wave so steep it looked like he was lining up for a moonshot. Dean teetered on the crest of one, went over ... one attempt ... two roll attempts and he was up. His first commando roll. I surfed a smaller wave, stalled, looked behind to see 3 metres of water bearing down on me. All hell broke lose as it crashed over my head, back and back deck. Dean said I completely disappeared.
All this as our spectator on shore looked on. He must have thought we were crazy. Maybe so, but it was great fun and we will be going back.
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