The foggy road home

Slipway

We awoke Monday to a typical Placentia Bay morning this time of year ... foggy. The chit chat at breakfast was navigating back over the 6+ kms open water from Long Island Point to Bordeaux Island at the entrance to Arnolds Cove.

Breakfast done and convinced we were OK, we loaded the boats ready to head back. I found three pieces of siding that meant I could just push the loaded kayak and not have to carry it to the water.

Leaving Haystack

The north side of the harbour was barely visible as we left.

Relection

Even in fog the land was reflected in soft shadows.

Adios beach

We stopped on the other side of what I've called "Welcome Beach" to finalize plans for the blind crossing. The beach here is no more than about 30 meters wide and two days previously we rested just on the other slope in brilliant sunshine. I'll name this "Adios Beach" as it was our last touch on Long Island.

Single file

We set a bearing of 60 degrees with Hazen in the lead. We went single file with each of us responsible for keeping visual contact with the person in front. I suggested Hazen lead with the hope of slowing Dean down because pouring it on he could paddle himself out of sight with his Greenland paddle.

Someone suggested we each take turns leading for the experience and it tuned out to be an excellent suggestion.

Land ho!

We trusted the compass and after about 50 minutes Bordeaux Island loomed to port.

End of the road

Four or five kms and we saw the houses of Arnolds Cove appear out of the fog. We were almost back.

Unloading

It was unbelievable seeing how much gear we had stuffed into our kayaks. Somehow its not that obvious in the loading but to see it unloaded in one place was impressive.

Lunch is served

We were starved and took advantage of Megans Restaurant on the highway to have a feed of fish and chips. Arnolds Cove is a fishing community so we expected the fish to be fresh, and it was. It also was a nice end to the trip as it gave us a chance to reflect together on a fine weekend. We had circumnavigated Long Island in 2 and a half days for a total of 90 kms, depending on whose GPS it was.

Excellent trip guys, thanks!

On to Haystack

Leaving Harbour Buffett

After a short stop in Harbour Buffett and a chat (fresh hot coffee in hand) with the Wareham party who were weekending there, we departed for Hay Cove where we planned to stop for lunch.

Quest for the sea

As chance would have it, I ran into Paul D in Harbour Buffett. Paul is my wife's cousin but I knew Paul many years before Sherry when we were both geology students at MUN. Paul's mother Aunt Hilda is from Hay Cove about 5 kms from Harbour Buffett. A number of years ago the History Channel got into the reality TV scene with a show called "Quest for the Sea". They staged it in Hay Cove on Aunt Hilda's land and the set passed to Paul. He told us to to help ourselves as the door was open. We could stay for the night or just have lunch. We opted for lunch.

Splitting table

The show "Quest for the Sea" was based on the struggles for survival in an outport setting by a fishing family. It was quaint, made for TV, touched some of the bases but lacked a certain amount of realism. Here for example is the "splittin" table where codfish is gutted, the head removed and salted. That's normally done on a stage, not on the open beach.

Five star restaurant

We carted our stuff up from the beach and had a first class dining experience complete with fine table linen!

Going though

The boats loaded up again, we carried on northwards towards Haystack where we intended to camp for the night.

Hole in the wall

A freestanding chunk of rock called Shag Roost in Northeast Cove caught our attention because of the hole through to the other side. I found it interesting for the geology. Finely bedded siltstones and sandstones on either side of the hole were displaced by a large, undifferentiated rock that hosted the hole. Two thin beds of sandstone on the right terminated at the contact and could be seen again towards the left.

Haystack

I wasn't sure what I'd see when I got to Haystack. In some way I thought I'd see sizeable fields where hay was grown. Not so. Haystack was named after a haystack shaped rock outside the harbour.

Haystack was settled in 1845 and resettled for the most part in 1960 - two residents hung on until 1966. The largest the population grew to was 79 in 1891. As a side note, my Math 101 prof in my first year of University, Mr. Halfyard was from Haystack. Growing up in a small and somewhat isolated community obviously did not preclude a good education.

There's a Haystack reunion site with historical background and some neat old (and new) pictures if interested.

Gimme shelter

Rain was in the forecast and in the air so one of the first things we did was hang a tarp in the trees near our campsite. It did rain for a while but we were comfortable cooking under our shelter.

Home sweet home

We had a great campsite at Haystack protected from the wind behind a small stand of trees.

Fire on the beach

The rain let up after a short while and while it continued to drizzle on and off we had a great roaring fire going. We stood around the fire talking while we finished off the last of the refreshments. Before long we were snug in our beds anticipating the open water crossing back to Arnolds Cove, back to civilization and the end of our trip in Placentia Bay.

To Harbour Buffett by water

A horse of course

Saturday night I slept like a log after our 37 km paddle down from Arnolds Cove. I woke early though, around 5:30. I unzipped the tent door to see what the weather was and as I looked around a horse and 4 goats were looking back at me. I dove back into the tent to grab my camera and emerged to see the horse turning to leave. Awesome!

Breadcrumbs for day 2

We sized up the situation in the morning as we ate breakfast and made a combined decision that it was suitable for a trip around Long Island. We planned to make camp in Haystack that night but would first make a couple of stops.

There's an overland trail from Port Royal to Harbour Buffett that can be walked in about 15 minutes. Hazen had walked there the previous evening but today we'd be going by water around Buffett Head and then turn north.

Underway, day 2

Back in the boats it didn't take long to get back into rhythm.

Higher

As we made our way towards the south end of Long Island the cliffs got higher.

Buffett Head looked to be in fog

The wind began to pick up slightly and it looked like maybe it would be foggy on the other side. The fog seemed to be trying to roll over Ironskull Hill and onto the east side of the island.

Nearing the headland

However, it began to brighten as Hazen and Clyde approach the headland. The nearest island Great Seal Island and in the distance to the left is Red Island.

Rounding Buffett Head

The waters around Buffett Head were glassy calm and there were lots of seagulls. The other guys were busy checking out a school of capelin, a small grunion like fish.

On the outskirts

Near the entrance to Harbour Buffett and inside Isaac Island someone has a beautiful site for a cabin and wharf.

Inside Harbour Buffett

Harbour Buffett is but a shadow if itself before resettlement. It was a thriving fishing community with a peak population of 498 in 1921. The whole harbour was occupied by fishing premises, stages and flakes for drying cod fish.

The Maritime History Archive at MUN (the University) has a nice collection of old photographs of Harbour Buffett and its citizens that makes for interesting viewing. the place looks so unassuming now given how active it was in its heyday. We had a quick look around but I think its worth coming back for a closer look, and I will.

Time moves on

Harbour Buffett was abandoned after 1966. As there was no one to tend to the cemetery, nature carried on as if it didn't notice the population had left. Trees grew between the graves and the action of frost toppled grave markers.

On walk about

We walked around the old community remarking about the amount of old foundations and concrete works still evident on the land. There happened to be a few people staying in cabins while we were there and they observed us through binoculars as we entered the harbour. Once we landed we found out that they had put a pot of coffee on, expecting us to have some. And, that is the way it is in Newfoundland.

Finished our short visit to Harbour Buffett, we got back in our kayaks with a send off from the Wareham party and made for Hay Cove and lunch.

Making port in Port Royal

Hazen with Merasheen and Red Islands in the distance

We stopped for lunch south of Spencers Cove in full sunshine and no wind what-so-ever. The sunshine didn't persist though as cloud rolled in. It was still pleasant, just not as bright. Invigorated with a good feed we got back in our boats and continued south.

Clyde and Dean hugging the shore

The waters stayed dead calm as we made our way south from Spencers Cove.

Suitable campsite

The topo map and satellite shot suggested this was a good spot to camp and it was. As we entered Hennesy Cove we were surprised to see five caribou in the cove but they wandered off as we neared the beach. This could have been a good campsite for the night but it was early and after some discussion we agreed to carry on another 10 km to Port Royal to camp for the night.

Jellyfish season

In addition to the eagles and caribou we saw, there's also lots of life beneath the surface. I don't know it its jellyfish season or not but there were lots of jellyfish everywhere.

Destination in sight

Paddling further down the coast we spotted Green Island and knew our destination was close.

Dean entering Kingwell

Kingwell is a resettled community some 15 kms from Spencers Cove. It sits in an indentation the shape of a bowl and protected by two islands. As we entered we caught sight of a woman with camera in hand so we went to have a chat. She was amazed that we had come in these small craft all the way from Arnolds Cove.

Kingwell

The harbour at Kingwell opened up into a round protected waterway with some cabins sprinkled along the shore.

Don Slade, storekeeper at one time in North Harbour, resettled from Kingwell. I knew Don well as my daughters spent part of summers in North Harbour and were treated often to goodies from his store.

Port Royal

Paddling down from Kingwell we began looking for a place to set up camp for the night. We prospected this level site but opted to get back in our boats and paddle to the long beach to the right of all the cabins and hopefully out of their sight.

Beachfront property

A narrow flat area above the high tide mark made a perfect place to pitch our tents.

Fire on the beach

After setting up the tents and cooking supper we collected a pile of driftwood scattered along the beach and started a fire. We talked about the day's paddle and plans for the next day all the while warmed by the glow of the fire and refreshments.

Slowly the the pile of wood was consumed and we crawled into our sleeping bags in anticipation of the next days paddle to Harbour Buffett and beyond.

Long Island - are we there yet?

Long Island

Clyde called early last week to see if I was interested in a kayak camp trip upcoming weekend. Absolutely I said. Being five days before the weekend, we agreed to mail around for interest and prepare as if it was a go with a final decision once the forecast became clearer.

As mail flew back and forth over the electronic highway, we settled on a crossing to Long Island in Placentia Bay. Details to be worked out on the fly.

Thursday arrived with a favourable long range forecast so Clyde, Dean, Hazen and I left Friday for Arnolds Cove where we would do the crossing to Long Island. We camped in a clearing off the highway, lit a fire, had a swally and hit the hay ready for a Saturday morning crossing.

Loading the kayaks

Up at the crack of dawn we had breakfast, broke camp and drove the short distance into Arnolds Cove. We found an easy access to the beach where we stuffed all our gear into our kayaks. I believe I saw Clyde use his boots a few times to force it all in.

Leaving Arnolds Cove

It was dead calm in the harbour as Dean and Hazen head for the north shore. In the distance between the darker landmass lay our destination of Long Island.

Clyde in stride

Clyde glides past Bodeaux Island, the last piece of security provided by the mainland before we hit the open water. The crossing from Bordeaux to Long Island Point is a few hundred meters over 6 kms.

Crossing

Bread and Cheese Islands on starboard. It felt good to be on the open ocean and underway.

Long Island Point

Dean arrives at Long Island Point. We proceeded down the inside channel between Long Island and Merasheen Island.

Long Island landing

One kilometer south of Long Island Point we had our first stop; not because we were tired but more to savour the success of reaching our destination and drink it all in. At this spot Long Island pinches in to no more than 30 meters wide with a similar beach mirrored on the other side. I'll name it Welcome Cove.

Merasheen Island in the distance with White Island off its north end.

Sun, sun, sun

We had a typical sunny day in Placentia Bay *lol*; just kidding. Anyone familiar with Placentia Bay knows its notorious for its foggy dreary weather that can last for days this time of year.

Entering Spencers Cove

The site of the former community of Spencers Cove (spelled variably with a "s") lies nestled under the rolling hills of Long Island 3.5 kms from the Point.

Spencers Cove was settled in 1850 and resettled in 1966. In 1857 the population was 87; 1941 - 119 and 1961 - 163. A sizeable community in rural Newfoundland by even today's standard.

The predominant family names include Slade, Hollett, Boutcher and Peach. Oddly, there are no "Spencers" listed; I wonder then how it came by its name. Maybe that information has been lost in time? The rest of the 1935 census can be found here if interested.

Foundations

Dean surveys the shoreline where a concrete foundation of an abandoned building was visible.

Hazen and Clyde chat it up

While Spencers Cove was resettled in 1966, the former inhabitants still come back to spend time in cabins they have built since abandonment. By the looks of their boats they haven't done too badly! These guys were only children when they left with their families but as they say here "you can take the boy out of the bay, but you can't take the bay out of the boy".

We had a grand chat with them before leaving to proceed further down the shore for lunch and to find our campsite for Saturday night.