On the eve of winter (1)

The bottom of Colliers Bay

Clyde, Dean, Hazen and I had an eve of winter paddle on Sunday from Colliers to Brigus and back. While its not officially winter until next weekend, it felt winter-like as the temperature at put-in was abut-5C. In the absence of wind it wasn't uncomfortable dressing and we were soon on our way generating heat with the paddles.

Cruising along massive cliffs

Leaving Colliers the east side is dominated by cliffs of the Harbour Main volcanic rocks. The Harbour Main group are the oldest rocks on the Avalon Peninsula upon which all the other formations are deposited.

Clyde wore his helmet

This weekend Clyde wore his helmet, not so much to protect his noggin' but for warmth (I think!) because that's why I wore mine today. I wear my neoprene skullcap on cold days and the helmet over it because the skullcap is not very fashionable.

A gentle swell

Proceeding up the shoreline we had just the gentlest of swells that added interest to paddling around rocks and along the cliffs.

It was cool but comfortable

The last couple of days a short cold snap has descended on the Avalon Peninsula where we've been having an unusually warm December. We should be in the throes of winter proper but its forecasted to warm up above zero again.

Pot of gold

The cold made this small waterfall cascading over the rocks turn partly to icicles made a small rainbow when viewed at the right angle to he sun. Here Hazen is the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

Hole in the wall

What makes a scenic day paddle? How about rocks and passages, sea stacks, caves and arches? Someone to share them with on a cool, sunny almost winter day? The answer is all of the above.

Layered rocks

Paddling on up the coast we came upon a narrow slot between the cliff and some rocks. Taking time to gauge the rhythm of the sea we pushed through and this amazing vista opened up. It was like hide your eyes - surprise.

The alternating red and gray sedimentary rocks indicate changes in depositional environment. The red being deposited in shallower, oxidizing waters and gray in deeper waters without oxygen to oxidize (i.e. rust) the iron hematite in the sediment.

Arriving at Brigus

So, we arrived at our outward destination for the day, Brigus. We paddled around the headland and into Brigus harbour where we discussed options for lunch. It was a bit after 12:30 and some of us were ready to eat but it would have to wait until we returned to Marysvale where we dined in style on a picnic table.

Heads or tails?

"The" Cape

This is a map of the area between St. John's and Cape Spear. On Wednesday Malcolm and I did a paddle directly from the harbour at St. John's to Cape Spear. Its the second time I've done this paddle with Malcolm.

I've also done it one time with Stan but we paddled down into Freshwater Bay and followed the shoreline.

They are different paddles to the same destination, something like both sides of a coin.

Far from shore

Setting a straight line course for the Cape means open ocean paddling. For me it becomes an inward paddle in the sense that once I'm in tune with the ocean I can establish a rhythm and become lost within myself.

The land is to starboard, as always is the sun (this time of year especially low in the sky) and therefore the light tends to overwhelm the camera. Not ideal for photography.

Spriggs Point

Paddling along the shoreline the route to the Cape has lots of stunning rock formations and cliffs. In this case the paddle is more of an interaction with the environment; a chance to observe and drink it all in.

The Cape in more common big seas

It is better to stand off the Cape in bigger swells because hidden shoals throw up steep seas near the Cape. Sitting out at the Cape in the undulating ocean is a peaceful, tranquil feeling. Part of that feeling may be due to reaching a goal at the end of a paddle in big seas. Its not a destination a lot of people make.

The Cape on a sunny, calm day

There are two ways to get out to the Cape, handrailing along the shoreline or a straight crossing. Its a matter of heads or tails. For me, I'd like to have both options and just keep that coin in my pocket.

Centenary paddle

Leaving for Cape Spear

Yes ladies and gents, today was my 100th time in the boat this year. Malcolm called me yesterday with a proposal to paddle to the exposed Cape Spear, the most easterly point in North America. I thought what a coincidence and what an exclamation mark to put on number 100.

We sized up the ocean from Fort Amherst concluding there was no reason why we shouldn't proceed. We put-in at Prosser's Rock Boat Basin paddling between the fishing boats tie up there just inside the entrance to the main harbour.

This would be my last opportunity to take a picture without being bounced around.

Making our way across St. John's Bay

We got out of the harbour without incident as the swell was running almost straight in and there was a bit of rebound from each side of the Narrows. We conferred and agreed we'd just as well make a direct crossing to Cape Spear.

The larger swells were about two metres directly into us with no wind to speak of. It was fantastic paddling. Oddly, I found I could get mini surf rides on the back of the swells as they passed under me.

Fog threatened to roll in

We made super time reaching Blackhead when the wind picked up at 12 knots from the SE and fog rolled in around the Head. Our bright sunny day ended early. That wasn't in the forecast but we were undeterred as we set a course for just inside the Cape in case the fog crept over us.

What started as a sunny, wind free day had changed but it was still an awesome paddle in swell that averaged between 2 and 3 metres.

Objective reached

We reached the Cape after paddling an hour and 5 minutes. Not bad at almost 4 knots an hour.

The sun was partly obscured by the low hanging clouds and the threat of fog hanging around the Cape. We paddled out past the Cape to a point where we could faintly see North Head in the distance but stopped before the point where passage to Ireland begins. We hung out for a while before we turned for home.

Within sight of Cabot Tower

We left the Cape under threat of fog rolling in so we took a bearing for Blackhead and if it stayed out we'd cross directly to the entrance to St. John's Harbour. At Blackhead we agreed it was a go for a direct crossing. Malcolm makes good time in the following sea as Cabot Tower sits on the hill overlooking our destination.

Every now and then we'd look over our shoulder in case a ship was entering the harbour at the same time. Looking back I was struck by the seas rearing up behind us that were driving us towards our goal.

Back inside the Narrows

As we arrived near the entrance to St. John' Harbour, known locally as "the Narrows" the Coast Guard ship Sir Wilfred Grenfell was leaving port. We kept to port of the channel for larger ships and kept paddling until we were in. Malcolm stopped in front of the Battery for a quick word before we re-entered Prosser's Rock Boat Basin where we took out amidst the heavy smell of diesel fuel on the water.

I hobbled about stowing my boat and gear because for some reason my wonky hip decided to act up. No matter. We shook hands as I departed feeling very content with what was a great centenary paddle - thanks Malcolm.

Paddling buddies

Small rock garden

I remember my first KNL event in 2004, it was the clubs AGM. I knew one person. Everyone else seemed to know each other; there was a sociable feel to the gathering before the start of business.

The next year I paddled with a few of the members and attended presentations at winter events. I gradually got to know more club members. Then, I offered myself for a position on the Board and really got involved.

This past Saturday we had our annual Christmas party. It was very well attended by about 45 people, most of whom I managed to share a few words with. I felt comfortable, as though I was among friends. That's probably not unusual because I see some once or twice a week over long stretches.

I made a wise choice to join the club because I've met not only some great paddling buddies but a great bunch of people that I consider friends.

Home sweet home

Getting ready

The forecast was not very appealing so six of us decided we'd paddle a familiar shoreline that would offer protection from the 15-20 knot easterly winds, and rain. Familiarity may breed contempt but the shore from St. Philips to Portugal Cove is a jewel close to home. There are rocks to navigate around, little coves and a short channel to paddle through.

Some came a bit early and were ready to paddle, waiting for the rest of us to put-in.

And, off they go!

The start of every paddle for me is full of anticipation. Even in familiar places because no two paddles are alike. The anticipation on this day for me was when would the scheduled rain and wind kick in. It was something like waiting for the other shoe to fall but it never did; we had great weather to the end of our paddle.

Even though the forecast was wrong, we took it into account. Better to have more favourable weather than forecasted than to pay a blind eye to the forecast and have conditions change to the point of being unsafe.

Stan

We've missed Stan in the paddling group lately. Stan thought the last time he had paddled was our trip to Ferryland and that was September 26. Its hard to believe that's over two months ago. Sometimes time just slips away and other things crowd our agenda but hopefully you'll get out a bit more Stan. Stan will have some shots of our paddle too on his excellent Kayaking Dreamin' blog.

Dean

This was number 92, 92 times in his boat this year for Dean. He's got a target of 100. The number of days are in the year is dwindling but there's still a chance to make it. Even if you don't make it Dean, you're still going hit an enviable number.

Sean

Just a little bit of swell made for interesting and, on occasion, challenging situations paddling around rocks.

Brian

There was no hurry as we stopped for a few minutes in Beachy Cove. The Topsail fault runs the along the entire coast from Topsail to Cape St. Francis. The amount of displacement in the fault isn't known but the contorted rocks all show the effects of the earth movement.

Clyde

As usual Clyde was in the soup wherever he could. The more time spent amongst the rocks and surge the greater chance of getting wet but also a greater chance of developing skills necessary to paddle in those places.

It was only a shortish paddle of 11 kms on a day when the forecast suggested stay in bed. We went out anyway, the unfavourable forecast didn't materialize and we had a very enjoyable time on the water. It was a familiar place but sometimes there's no place like home, sweet home.

Surf's up

Feeling the bottom

We landed for lunch when we got back into Tors Cove from Bauline Head where a few suggested we go out again to play in the breaking waves between Fox Island and the Cribbies. There was some support for that but it slowly dissipated once we had our bellies full. Instead, we walked over to have a closer look on foot.

The power in the water was awesome. It was near low tide which made the incoming waves really stand up in the approaches to the channel. The closer look reinforced a reluctance to put in again. The low tide exposed rocks. Without a helmet it would have been foolhardy.

At high tide, in the right conditions, its a place to keep in mind for some playtime. Maybe next summer in warmer weather.

The first paddler

Out on the open ocean

Paddle Canada has established a series of levels of paddling proficiency for certification purposes. Students can take courses and be certified up to level IV.

Level I certification means the paddler has demonstrated an ability to paddle in enclosed, sheltered places where there are plenty of easy landing sites in winds less than 8 knots on a calm to rippled sea. That's pretty basic and I think anyone with any athletic ability at all can jump in at that level.

Level IV certification means the paddler has demonstrated an ability to paddle along an open coast where there are infrequent and difficult landing sites in 20 knot winds, in a moderate to rough 1 metre sea state, a surf height of more than 1 meter and a 3 knot current.

I'm totally uncertified, never having taken a Paddle Canada course. I've learned by watching and doing. That raises a question for me: who certified the first paddler? And, if the first paddler wasn't certified, who trained the next paddlers?

See where I'm going with this?