Tuesday Brian, Terry and I were in Chance Cove for a few hours of kayak surfing. The swell was forecasted to come from the southeast and have a period of 15 seconds. When we got there we had a look. It wasn't wild but there were sizable waves rolling in but with long periods in between.
Why is it the bigger waves to surf come in when paddling out?
There was a zone in the cove where the larger swells reared up and broke. Terry spent most of his time in that zone. The place to be in a plastic boat; fibreglass, not so much. In there its best to keep your head on a swivel because the sea can surprise as ...
... I found out. A little too close to shore where the water was shallow, add a wave and you're taken for an uncontrolled ride and ...
... boom , you're up on the rocks.
I looked out the cove and thought "Oh crap" as a large wave reared up. I didn't have time to pivot to meet the wave head on but managed to avoid another side surf onto the beach by backing into it. Saved by the brace.
As the day progressed the land warmed up and a seabreeze set up. We decided to paddle south into the wind a couple of kilometers as high tide cut the swell down. The return into the cove happened to be the best surfwise. Though not large, the waves were regular and easy to catch making for some nice long rides.
I had my Pyranha creek boat but didn't use it. I regretted it on the way home. After my first ride up on the beach rocks I got cautious in the fibreglass Nordkapp. The good rides were right in the maw of the breaking waves but to go there meant a certain ride up onto the rocks each time. That would have been "meh" in the Pyranha.
Chance Cove was fun. I was glad Brian suggested it. I was glad I went.
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